Niseko, Hokkaido

Niseko’s original Australian promoters put light, dry Japow on the international map. Due to its northern location due east of Siberia at a relatively narrow part of the Sea of Japan, Niseko’s geographic fortune regularly delivers low moisture snow dust of remarkably consistent quality, out champagning Colorado at close to sea level.

As for quantity, averaging 15 meters (over 550 inches) of annual snowfall, Niseko surpasses all North American resorts except Mt. Baker.

Niseko United is generally a big, red (equivalent to blue in North America) square mountain. It is heaven for the general all around skier with room to grow. Most investment into new lifts are tasked towards opening more terrain for beginning skiers, and the large acreage of the lift-serviced area makes the resort a happy place for those still working on the basics. There are a few relatively challenging runs (relatively short when compared to the monster slopes of the Rockies, Tetons and European Alps), but for the most part chasing fresh powder is more the mantra than chasing angles for advanced shredders who do not want to venture into side country.

What Niseko lacks in patrol swept extremes it makes up for those who are willing to add some aerobic activity to their day on the slopes in the gated side country. From in bound gates that lead to wild powder bowls such as Strawberry Fields and Mizunosawa to the side border gates which open up vast terrain beneath Mt. Annupuri’s pointy cone. A 20 minute hike to the peak rewards the fit and adventurous to spectacular sweeping deep powder (as long as it lasts) turns down its north face to some of the world’s best bowl terrain off the west face that conveniently loops back through silver birch forests to the Annupuri lifts at the base.

Niseko offers state-of-the art snow sport schools with instructors from around the world who have clocked experience at the leading resorts of Europe, North America and Australia. The English language is as common as Japanese, and instructors whose native languages include French, Italian, Spanish, Mandarin and Cantonese can be found with advanced notice. The mountain-owned ski schools, led by the Niseko International Snowsports School in Hanazono, offer modern base facilities for students with extensive children’s programs, while there are numerous independent ski schools for clients who want more customized service.

All state-of-the-art ski and snowboarding equipment and winter wear can be found in and around Niseko for purchase and rental. The leading snowsports shop, Rhythm, has built two flagship stores in Hirafu and offers pickup services. Other well-stocked rental and retail shops can be found inside some of the larger lodging facilities. Backcountry gear is also widely available through a number of specialty shops, also for both purchase and rent. In addition, with local celebrity snowboard shapers (Gentemstick) and ski makers (Roko and Komori) producing high quality products that can be found almost nowhere else, unique local equipment can be the ultimate souvenir to bring back home.

General Dining: The Niseko area hosts a depth in dining options second to none among Japan’s mountain destinations and holds its own when juxtaposed with North American and European destinations. As a nexus of luxury resort ambitions meeting Japan’s UNESCO-recognized culinary heritage, a rich agricultural region and nearby access to aquaculture from both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan, the bounty of dining choices can be perused among the over 160 eateries listed in the thorough but not comprehensive Niseko Wine & Dine guide. It was enough to bring Anthony Bourdain to air an episode of No Reservations in 2011 centered on Niseko and his photo adorns the walls of the two local classics he covered.   

Fine Dining: 

Niseko is singular in the selection of restaurants of a level that will attract endowed foodies irrespective of whether they could care less about playing with gravity on frozen water crystals. The choices are extensive, including a duopoly of Michelin-starred sushi bars in Annupuri and Hanazono, equivalently bedazzled French restaurants helmed by superstar chefs Yuichi Kamimura and Hiroshi Nakamichi, the latter of which is housed in a village of gourmet eateries at the Park Hyatt Niseko. The holistic ryokan kaiseki experience is available at the newish, and instantly acknowledged, Zaborin as well as the classic Mokunosho on the opposite side of the mountain. One of Sapporo’s best robatayaki restaurants created its outpost, Naniwatei, in a farmhouse on the outskirts of Hirafu. And, art meets food at the design-driven Somoza and Sekka-Lab restaurants.  The list goes on and will expand further with new ryokan, a Ritz-Carlton Resort and an Aman Resort slated for opening in the near future.

Lodging choices in Niseko cover the full range from backpacker guest houses to 5-star destinations-within-destinations. The resort has been in a constant state of renewal for 2 decades and shows no sign of slowing down. With the Park Hyatt Niseko at the high water mark for full service luxury to be joined by a Ritz Carlton Reserve at the end of 2020, visitors can choose any type of lodging to match their budget and vacation goals. The selection of condominiums and private villas is equally extensive

The closest airport to Niseko is Shin-Chitose Airport (Sapporo), with most visitors transferring to the resort by hired car, coach bus or local train. The trip time will range from 2 - 3 hours depending on weather and traffic. The Shinkansen from Tokyo currently terminates in Hakodate at the southern end of Hokkaido, so an additional 3-4 hours will be required to get to Niseko if one wishes to travel to Niseko from Tokyo by train. Construction is underway to bring the Shinkansen to Sapporo with a stop in Kutchan on the way, but the extended run is not expected to commence before 2030. Once completed, Niseko is expected to be a 4 hour ride from downtown Tokyo.

Niseko, as part of Japan’s newest frontier, Hokkaido, does not overflow with millennial-old traditions when compared with ski towns in Honshu. Further, as the most cosmopolitan resort in Japan, it is easy to find space to concentrate only on the skiing and not even acknowledge the country in which the lifts operate. Experiencing Japanese culture is a matter of choice, from selection of lodging and dining, to engaging in the daily ritual of hot spring bathing and seeking out the small selection of temples and shrines tucked into the surrounding forests and hills. The resort operators also offer genuine experiences, including a taiko drumming demonstration at Niseko Village every Thursday evening and various festivals at the resort and the local towns throughout the winter and the calendar year.

As a modern resort, Niseko is a leader in providing facilities for families with children. Toddler and children specific snowsport programs are widespread as well as rental equipment specific for all age groups, as well as sledding and other non-skiing activities. Professional babysitting services are also available. The broad geography of the resort does make choice of lodging important for families with children who want easy access to designated services.