Hakkoda, Aomori
If your goal is deep powder snow served on an extreme platter with as few resort bells and whistles as possible, Hakkoda is a badge of honor. Easily accessible from Aomori City, itself well connected by air and shinkansen, the Hakkoda Mountain Range is a world unto itself. The minimally developed national park is serviced by a single tramway (there is also a small lift operation at the base), with only two cut trails descending from the top station. Hakkoda is about putting on skins or snowshoes and exploring its multiple peaks and valleys. It is a 2 hour trek to the tallest peak (O-dake) from the top of the tram, with deep rewards for those who make the effort and get lucky with a weather window.
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Point by Point
Snow Quality / Quantity
Hakkoda’s moderately high altitude and northernmost position on the main island of Honshu delivers the same quality of powder that is enjoyed in Hokkaido.
In terms of quantity, Hakkoda is one of the only mountains in Japan which can put the locations on the next island up to shame. With an average of 20 meters of snowfall annually, visitors are known to say “too much”, particularly when combined with a regular stream of extreme weather that can create snow waves as high as 5 meters.
Ski Schools
None, other than private clinics for back country technique.
Rental / Retail
Almost none. There are some shops which rent back country gear and supplemental thermal gear is also available.
General / Fine Dining
General Dining: The lodges, which are run ryokan style, provide traditional (and hearty) breakfasts and dinners. There are a few basic restaurants at the mountain base for lunch and one cafe at the top of the ropeway. The food is authentic and excellent if you enjoy true Japanese cuisine.
Fine Dining: There is no destination dining at Hakkoda, but the general quality is high.
Lodging
There are half a dozen lodging options at Hakkoda. At the top of the heap is the Hakkoda Hotel, a massive log structure built in grand mountain lodge fashion. As a favorite of the Imperial Family, Hakkoda Hotel maintains a cache and level of service above the rest, although do not expect 5 star service. The same company runs the 400 year old Sukanoyu Hotel, a massive hotspring building which maintains its traditions throughout while oozing alpinism. The onsen water is famously pungent, whether you enjoy it its now rare massive mixed bath or one of the several single sex baths, you will feel Japan coming out of your pours. If that is not enough for you, further down the road is another onsen inn with a 600 year history. Of bit more recent vintage is the Hakkoda Hotel & Resort, which has the advantage of being at the base of the mountain (all the others require cars). It is a no frills operation that is very popular with the domestic hard core mountain crowd.
Air / Train Access
The closest airport to Hakkoda is Aomori Airport, which is about an hour away. The airport is relatively small and prone to closure in extreme weather (particularly in January and February), so if flying plan on having the train as a contingency backup. The Tohoku Shinkansen stops at either Shin-Aomori or Hachinohe also provide hour-long access to the mountain. The access roads to the mountain often shuts in the winter after 9:00 p.m., so travel needs to be planned accordingly.
Cultural Experience
The ancient hotels and mountain atmosphere bubble with distinct Aomori culture. You will not mistake which country you are visiting. Once your fill of the mountain is complete, dropping into the surrounding cities of Aomori, Hirosaki and Hachinohe opens access to festivals, museums, castles and markets all worth exploring. Hachinohe is considered to have one of the best fish markets in the country.
Family / Kids
The wildness of the atmosphere and limited facilities makes Hakkoda a place not recommended for small children. Older children with intermediate to advanced skiing skills may enjoy experiencing the culture and the unique environment.
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